DHA: The science behind the beauty of sunless tanning

Dihydroxyacetone is known more commonly as DHA; at Norvell, we ensure the highest quality of naturally derived DHA for flawless, natural-looking results. Norvell and our parent company, Sunless Inc. are the #1 users of DHA in the world! We source only the finest DHA from Europe and test each batch to ensure quality and freshness for peak product performance and the most natural-looking tan.

The Chemistry of Sunless

The main active ingredient in self tanners is dihydroxyacetone (C3H6O3 aka DHA), which is nothing more than a simple sugar (a triose) often derived from plant sources such as sugar beets, and sugar cane. This ingredient works by a chemical reaction with dead skin cells to create the appearance of a naturally tanned skin.

Sunless Tanning's Active Ingredient

Start seeing color development in 4-6 Hours. DHA works in the skin up to 24 hours. Spray tan longevity is 5-7 days.

How it Works

DHA reacts solely with the amino acids in the stratum corneum, which is the outer most layer of the skin. This is similar to the Maillard reaction; which produces cyclic and linear polymers called melanoidins, which gives skin a natural tan appearance. Melanoidins have a brown color that is similar to melanin that is naturally produced by UV rays. The resulting color will fade within five to seven days due to natural skin exfoliation.

DHA darkens between 4 to 24 hours after application, with results that can last 5 to 7 days.
Skin pH levels directly effect an individual's self-tanning results. Perfect pH range = 4.8 - 6.0
Darker complexions lend a false sense of security, DHA tans do NOT offer any SPF or UV protection.

History of DHA

DHA was first used as an active ingredient during research on the treatment of diabetes, as some people tolerate DHA better than glucose. In 1957, the tanning properties of Dihydroxyacetone were discovered in a children's hospital and three years later the first scientific papers on DHA were published. In the late 1960s, a major sun care brand introduced the first consumer self-tanning lotion.

The United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA) added DHA permanently to their list of approved cosmetic ingredients in the 1970s. By the 1980s, refined sunless tanning formulations appeared on the market and a refined manufacturing process produced a better color fade.

Today, DHA's physiochemical properties, tanning mechanics and skin tolerance continue to be explored resulting in improved methods of application, and a uniform natural-looking tan without the use of UV rays.

The FDA and DHA

Listed in the regulations as a color additive for imparting color to the human body, DHA's use in cosmetics is restricted to external application (21 CFR 73.2150). For additional information concerning the FDA's position on DHA in sunless tanners visit www.fda.gov and search "sunless tanners".

Norvell and the FDA recommend you utilize the following guidelines when spraying DHA: use of protective undergarments, nose filters, lip balm, protective eye shields, ear plugs, and to post signs informing your clients of these recommendations.

Although not required by the FDA, Norvell proactively recommends the use of gloves and filtering masks for all technicians during spray sessions, as with all exposure to airborne particulates (mist).