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Norvell Ingredient Glossary

What is Butyrospermum Parkii and what is it doing in my lotion? It's shea butter.

No wonder so many people are confused by the many choices in "natural" and "organic" personal care products.  The ingredient names are often unfamiliar for several reasons.

INCI names such as  Butyrospermum Parkii is the correct way to list cosmetic ingredients on a label. INCI stands for International Nomenclature for Cosmetic Ingredients and these standards have been developed as a universal language so there is transparency in cosmetic labeling. Although it may be a bit confusing, this system ensures that the real identity of an ingredient can't be cleverly hidden behind a cute description like "from coconut" or "natural citrus preservative". This way you know exactly what is and isn't in a products.

The FDA also requires that the chemical name be listed, even for such common ingredients as Vitamin E, aka, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE. So, it may not be easy to identify even well-known ingredients.

We hope this glossary of common ingredients, definitions and information will provide a convenient quick reference and aid in clearing the confusion. It is by no means complete--we will be adding to it constantly.  And, please remember "the whole is often greater than the sum of its parts." A single ingredient may possess beneficial qualities, but we believe that the right formulation of ingredients, combined to maximize their individual natural benefits, will always be most effective.
 

  
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Acaí Berry It is a member of the genus Euterpe, which contains 8 species of palms native to tropical Central and South America, from Belize south to Brazil and Peru, growing mainly in floodplains and swamps.  It is known for being rich in antioxidant properties.
 
Accelerator A product designed to provide ingredients necessary for melanin production.  Most effective if used after shower or at least four hours before tanning.
 
Acetyl Tyrosine This ingredient is soluble in most solvents and is a derivative of L-Tyrosine.
 
Acetylated Lanolin
Alcohol		 Derived from Lanolin, this emollient has a smooth texture and forms a protective coating on the skin's surface to help prevent moisture loss, without leaving a greasy film.
 
Acid Describes the pH level of substance.  Acids are used in skin care products to stabilize formulas and to reduce the pH to a slightly acid level that is compatible with skin.
 
Acid Balance The natural pH level of your skin.
 
Acid Mantle A protectively oily layer on the skin's surface which functions to regulate moisture loss and retention as well as to protect the skin from environmental stress.
 
Actives Ingredients that perform a products' main activity or that produce its primary benefits.
 
Adenosine Triphosphate also referred to as Adenosine-5-Triphosphate, is a coenzyme valuable in the transfer of phosphate bond energy and is used as a cell function energizer.
 
Adenosine-5
Triphosphate		 also referred to as Adenosine Triphosphate, is a coenzyme valuable in the transfer of phosphate bond energy and is used as a cell function energizer.
 
Alcohols A class of organic chemical compounds derived from many different parent substances.  Depending on the parent substance, alcohols can be drying or lubricating to the skin.  Ranging from clear liquids to waxy solids, alcohols are used as emollients, humectants, lubricants, emulsifiers, or stabilizers.  (Ethyl alcohol is drying to the skin because it blends with water on the skin's surface and allows it to evaporate more easily.  Cosmetic alcohols have no relation to ethyl alcohol.)
 
Algae Complex From Brown Algae, which is also called Laminaria Ochroleuca, a marine plant that lives exposed to intense light.  It contains the same vital nutrients and amino acids that are present in blood plasma, giving it excellent skin penetration properties.  It also nourishes skin and is a natural cellular renewal ingredient.  I also stimulates the activity of tyrosinase.
 
Alkaline Describes the pH level of a substance.  Bases increase alkalinity are used in skin care products to stablize formulas and to increase the pH to a slightly acid level that is compatible with skin.  SEE Acid.
 
Allantion A compound that occurs naturally in wheat sprouts, comfrey, and sugar beets.  It softens, soothes, and helps heal skin by promoting cellular renewal (anti-aging).
 
Allergen A substance that produces an inflammatory reponse only in persons who have become sensitized to the substance in a previous contact.
 
Aloe Vera
(Aloe Barbadensis)		 This ingredient is an extract from the Aloe Vera plant.  Aloe Vera has exceptional oxygenation (the ability to draw and hold oxygen to the skin) properties, making it very effective for cellular renewal.  Having the same pH as human skin, it is also extremely soothing and protective.
 
Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) Derived from various plant sources or from milk. It helps to exfoliate dead skin cells.  It has been reported to normalize hyperkeratinization (over-thickened skin) and to increase viable epidermal thickness and dermal glycosaminoglycans content. A vast amount of research has substantially described how the aging process affects the skin and has demonstrated that many of the unwanted changes can be improved by topical application of AHAs, including glycolic and lactic acid.
 
Alpha Lipoic Acid It is a natural antioxidant that helps neutralize free radicals in the body and protects cells from damage.
 
Amplifier A product designed to increase absorption of UV light by the skin.  An amplifier reduces the reflective properties of the skin.
 
Antioxidant Any substance which functions to neutralize free radicals and thereby prolong shelf-life and enhance product stability.  Antioxidants in the skin will reduce free radical damage to tissues.
 
Anti-Oxidant
Fruitprime Complex		 SEE:  Banana Extract, Date Extract, Pomegranate Extract & Strawberry Extract.
 
Aquaxyl
(Sodium Hyaluronate)		 found in human cells, is a cellular renewal ingredient, as well as a healing and moisturizing agent.
 
Ascorbic Acid
(Vitamin C)		 An antioxidant vitamin that helps neutralize free radicals.  It has been clinically shown to reverse photoaging (wrinkles and age spots) and boost the skin's collagen productions for smoothers and firmer skin.  In addition, Vitamin C inhibits UVA and UVB radiation-induced damage, also resulting in younger looking skin.
 
Ascorbyl Palmitate An ester of ascorbic acid, facilitates the incorporation of ingredients such as vitamins A, D, and C into formulations.
 
Ascorbyl PM SEE Ascorbic Acid
 
Astracran SEE  Cranberry Seed Extract
 
Avocado Oil
(Persea Gratissima)		 Good source of skin-nourishing vitamins A, D, and E, as well as amino acids and minerals.  It is an excellent skin softener and moisturizer that readily penetrates the skin, helping to transport active substances.  Some research indicates that avocado oil may mobilize and increase the collagen of connective tissue, keeping skin smooth and supple.
 
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Benzyl Nicotinate This ingredient dilates blood vessels, thereby temporarily activating blood circulation.  The increased blood flow results in a enhanced supply of oxygen, nutrients, and moisture to the skin cells, along with a faster elimination of wastes by means of metabolic process.
 
Beta Hydroxy Acid also known as Salicylic Acid.  For decades dermatologists have been prescribing salicylic acid as an exceedingly effective keratolytic (exfoliant), but it also is an anti-irritant.  It is thought to have anti-inflammatory and animircrobial properties.
 
Bismuth Oxychloride The standard primary ingredient included in most powders that are referred to as “mineral makeup.”   It’s used in cosmetics because it has a distinct shimmery, pearlescent appearance and a fine white powder texture that adheres well to skin.
 
Bladderwrack Obtained from the Fucus Vesiculosus and related species of Algae found in North Atlantic Ocean.  It is rich in Alginic Acid, Polysaccharides, Proteins, Amino Acids and Iodine in various combinations.  Prized for it's softening, soothing and toning properties.  It can be an effective antioxidant and has water-binding properties for skin.
 
Butylene Glycol A solvent in cosmetics to dissolve some raw material ingredients.  It has emollient properties to maintain the soft, smooth, and pliable appearance of the skin.
 
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Caffeine Caffeine is a heterocyclic organic compound that energizes the skin.  Caffeine may help protect against skin cancer.
 
Calendula Derived from the Pot Marigold plant, which is native to Europe.  It provides soothing effects and helps heal damaged or irritated tissues, reducing inflammation.  It is also used in products for eczema, athlete's foot, varicose veins, minor injuries an skin problems.
 
Caprylyl Glycol Skin-conditioning agent that may be plant-derived or synthetic.
 
Caramelized Sugar Solution obtained from heating sucrose or glucose solution.  It is used as a colorant.
 
Carbomer Used as a thickening and suspending agents, form thick, stable emulsions of oils in water.
 
Carbopol A carbomer is a polymer defined by a number, for example, Carbomer-940.  Carbomers are used as a thickening agents in combination with a base.  Carbopols leave a smooth skin feel.
 
Cellulosic Thickener A natural polysaccharide obtained from plant fibers.  Used as a thickener.
 
Ceteareth-20 This is in the class of polyethylene glycol ethers. Ceteareths are emulsifiers.
 
Cetearyl Alcohol It is a mixture of fatty alcohols consisting predominately of Cetyl Alcohol and Stearly Alcohol.  It is used as an emollient and viscosity-increasing agent in emulsions.
 
Cetyl Acetate A mixture of Cetyl alcohol and acetic acid used as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient.
 
Cetyl Palmitate used to thicken, give stability, and add texture to emulsions.
 
Chamomile From the Anthemis Nobilis plant.  It is used for its soothing, skin-friendly properties.
 
Chromium Hydroxide Green Earth mineral used as a coloring agent/additive.
 
Chromium Oxide Green Earth mineral used as a coloring agent/additive.
 
Citric Acid
(Vitamin C)		 Derived from citrus fruits.  Natural astringent and antioxidant properties.  Also used as a natural preservative and pH regulator.
 
Cocamide MEA A thickener added to cleansers to help stabilize the lather and improve foam formation.
 
Cocamidopropyl
Betaine		 Produced from coconut oil, is a surfactant that creates high, creamy foams.
 
Cocoa Butter
(Theobroma Cacao)		 Obtained from the roasted seeds of Theobroma Cacao whose original home is in the hot jungles of South and Central America and only thrives in hot, moist climates that lie within 20 degrees of the equator.  'It is used as an excellent moisturizer and skin protectant to nourish and soften skin.  It is also used to help speed the healing of damaged skin, to smooth blemishes, to soften stretch marks and to soothe itching from insect bites and rashes.
 
Coconut Oil
(Cocos Nucifera)		 Obtained from the kernels of the seeds of the Cocos Nucifera.  It is used for moisturizing and also protects the skin from moisture loss.
 
Coffee Arabica Extract Extracted from the fruit of the coffee tree.  Green Coffee has antiseptic properties due to its content of pehnolic acids (parahydrocinnamic, ferulic and cholorgenic acids).  It can be used as an antioxidant in sun and slenderizing products.
 
Coffee Bean Extract Extracted from the fruit of the coffee tree.  Green Coffee has antiseptic properties due to its content of pehnolic acids (parahydrocinnamic, ferulic and cholorgenic acids).  It can be used as an antioxidant in sun and slenderizing products.
 
Copper It is a necessity for tyrosinase activity.  Facilitates melanin production.  Copper has additional benefits to skin and hair, showing an enhanced ability to bind moisture to maintain a healthy appearance.
 
Copper Glyconucleopeptides Studies show that copper deficiency causes diminished melanin pigmentation because copper is a necessity for tyrosinase activity.  Copper Gluconucleopeptide have additional benefits to skin and hair, showing an enhanced ability to bind moisture to maintain healthy appearance.
 
Copper Peptides *see Copper Glyconecleopeptides
 
Cranberry Seed Extract Extract of the cranberry fruit. Natural components known as proanthocyanidins are responsible for this extract’s antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
 
Cucumber
(Cucumis Sativus)		 Native of the southwest of India where is has been cultivated for more than 4000 years.  'It contains amino acids and organic acids that can strengthen the skin's acid mantle.  Is also has excellent astringent, moisture-binding, soothing and refreshing properties.
 
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D-alpha Tocopheryl (Natural Vitamin E) see Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
 
Decyl Oleate The ester of decyl alcohol and oleic acid.  An emollient that also helps add body to lotions.
 
Deionized or Demineralized Water Water run through active resin beds to remove metallic ions and filtered through a submicron filter to remove suspended impurities.
 
Dermis The innermost layer of skin, separated from the epidermis by a thin membrane.  The dermis provides structure and elasticity to the skin. It contains blood vessels and nerves.
 
Dihydroxyacetone
(DHA)		 This skin browning effect is non-toxic, and similar to the Maillard reaction. It is more commonly seen in the food preparation industry, and was described in 1912 by Louis Camille Maillard. DHA reacts chemically with the amino acid groups, which are part of the protein containing keratin layer on the skin surface. Various amino acids react differently to DHA, producing different tones of coloration from yellow to brown. The resulting pigments are called melanoidins. These are similar in coloration to melanin, the natural substance in the deeper skin layers which brown or "tan", from exposure to UV rays.
 
Dimethicone A form of silicone used to give products lubricity, slip, and good feel.  It helps reduce evaporation of water from the skin's surface and therefore helps maintain the water content of the skin.
 
Dimethyl Isosorbide
(DMI)		 This ingredient is used as a solvent of active ingredients.  Dimethyl Isosorbide is used with Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) for more even skin distribution to prevent streaking.
 
DMDM Hydantoin A preservative.  It slowly releases formaldehyde to give antimicrobial properties to skin care products.
 
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Emollient A substance that softens and smoothes the skin
 
Emulsifier A compound that can suspend oil in water.  An emusifier will also help prevent the separation of an oil and water emulsion once formed.
 
Enzyme A class of protein compound produced by a living organism that acts as a catalyst capable of accelerating biochemical changes.
 
Erythrulose It is a natural ketose obtained by bio-fermentation.  When used in combination with Dihydroxyacetone (DHA), it leads to uniform tanning of the skin and provides longer lasting color.
 
Essential Oils Extracted from various plant, are present as tiny droplets between the plant's cells.  They are 100% pure and have many properties, including antiseptic, antibiotic, soothing, and calming.
 
Ethanol Ethanol has widespread use as a solvent of substances intended for human contact or consumption, including scents, flavorings, colorings, and medicines. In chemistry, it is both an essential solvent and a feedstock for the synthesis of other products.
 
Ethoxydiglycol This ingredient is a cosmetic ether alcohol that is used as a solvent or a carrier for some ingredients such as DHA.  It can also be used as a viscosity-decreasing agent.
 
Ethyl Methyl Carboxamide It is an organic compound used in fragrances. It is also used as a skin cooling ingredient.
 
Ethylenediamine Tetracetic Acid
(EDTA)		 A synthetic compound used in lotions as a preservative.
 
Evening Primrose Oil A natural oil that hydrates and softens the skin.
 
Exfoliate The removal of the deal superficial skin cells by a mechanical means, such as scrub, masque, peel, or by a chemical means with alpha hydroxy acid.  Exfoliation is popular and accepted method to control skin cell regeneration, to smooth the skin, and to deep cleanse pores.  Mechanical exfoliation is one of the few skin care activities that gives noticeable results immediately.
 
Extacts of Lemon Peel Obtained from the fruit of the plat Citrus Limon, containing Essential Oils, Pectin, Organic and Amino Acids.  It is celebrated for its toning, cleansing, purifying and brightening properties.
 
Extrate An herbal concentrate produced by transferring the essential or active ingredients from an herbal plant into a solvent like oil.
 
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FD&C An acronym for Food, Drug and Cosmetic Administration.
 
FD&C Blue #1 This ingredient is a colorant used to color finished formulas.
 
FD&C Bronzers This ingredient is a colorant used to color finished formulas.
 
FD&C Red #33 A certified monoazo colorant permitted for the use in drugs and cosmetics but not in foods. This ingredient is a colorant used to color finished formulas
 
FD&C Red #40 A certified Monoazo colorant, soluble in water and permitted for use in food, drug, and cosmetic products.
 
FD&C Yellow #5 This ingredient is a colorant used to color finished formulas.
 
Ferric Ferrocyanide Also known as Iron Blue, a coloring agent used in cosmetic products, including those designed for use around the eye.
 
Fir Needle A natural cleanser obtained from the needle of various cone bearing evergreen trees.
 
Fragrance An aromatic blend employing essential oils of natural origin, of synthetic origin, or both.
 
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Ginkgo Biloba Research shows this potent antioxidant helps improve blood flow.
 
Ginseng
(Panax Ginseng)		 It is grows in the damp woodlands of Manchuria and is cultivated in Korea.  It contains vitamins A, B-6 and the mineral zinc to nourish skin.  It is believed to be nourishing due to its vitamin and hormone content.  It seems to aid in diminishing wrinkles, increasing skin elasticity and help dry skin.   It rejuvenates, oxygenates and stimulates skin.
 
Glycerin This humectant protects and seals moisture on the skin surface.  It is widely used in products as a moisturizing agent.
 
Glycerl Cocoante Used as an emollient and thickening agent in cosmetics
 
Glyceryl Monosterate A wax-like solid used as an emulsifying and thickening agent.
 
Glyceryl Stearate It is derived from plant kernel or soy oil.  It is an emulsifier that assists in forming neutral, stable emulsions.
 
Glycol Disterate It is the diester of Ethylene Clycol and Stearic Acid.  It is an emollient and an emulsifier used in lotions and cleaners to achieve "pearling".
 
Glycol Stearate It is the monoester of Ethylene Clycol and Stearic Acid.  It is an emollient and an emulsifier used in lotions and cleaners to achieve "pearling".
 
Grapefruit Oil Cold-pressed from the fresh peel of the Citrus Paradisi tree, valued for it's characteristic bitter-sweet fragrance.
 
Grapeseed Oil
(Vitis Vinifera)		 This is a refined oil that is delivered from a variety of grapes.  It contains high levels of Linoleic acid and Omega 6 fatty acids, and is rich in Vitamin E.  It is beneficial in tanning and skin care products because of its antioxidant and anti-enzyme activity that helps prevent damage to the skin from UV exposure and the environment.  The skin also easily absorbs it.
 
Green Tea This ingredient contains caffeine and other xanthines that help to reduce skin irritation caused by some cosmetic ingredients.  It has polyphenols to act as effective antioxidants agents to scavenge free radicals and effectively protects against or prevents the deleterious cosmetic effects of excessive sun exposure.  The also protects against skin roughness and skin peeling resulting from overexposure to UV light.
 
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Hemp Seed Oil Hydrates the skin with a highly evolved balance of essential fatty acids, amino acids and vital nutrients
 
Humectant A substance that promotes the retention of moisture by complexing and binding water to itself.
 
Hyaluronic Acid A potent humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to help hydrate the skin.  It is a natural moisturizer with remarkable water-binding capabilities, giving immediate smoothness to rough skin and significantly improving skin appearance.
 
Hydrogenated
Vegetable Oil		 Vegetable oil thickened through hydrogenation.  Increases stability of the oil while retaining the protective emolliency.
 
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein Used as a skin-conditioning agent, this ingredient is the hydrolysate of vegetable protein derived by acid, enzyme or other method of hydrolysis.
 
Hypoallergenic A product claim that describes products that have been clinically proves to be less likely to cause allergic reactions in people prone to allergies.
 
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Inorganic Any substance that is not composed of plant or animal matter.
 
Iron Oxides A colorant or pigment that, when hit by light, partly reflects, refracts and transmits the rays.  The color produced is seen as luster in a phenomenon known as light interference.
 
Irritant A substance that consistently and predictable produces an adverse reaction (reddening, swelling, itching, burning, or blistering) in a person.  Most irritants are harmless at low concentrations, becoming irritant at higher concentrations.  Irritants should not be confused with allergens.
 
Isopropyl Myristate The ester of myristic acid and isopropyl alcohol.  It is used as a solvent in personal care products.  It improves spreading characteristics and promotes a dry feeling.
 
Isopropyl Palmitate This  ingredient is an ester of Isopropyl Alcohol and Palmitic Acid that is used as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient,
 
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Jojoba  Seed Oil It is an extract from the crushed seeds of Simmodsia Chinensis, a plant that grows spontaneously in the intense heat and dryness of desert environments such as those found in Arizona, California, the south of Australia and the northwestern portion of Mexico.  It is a natural, non-comedogenic moisturizer, providing the skin with suppleness and softness.  Its consistency is strikingly similar to human sebum, allowing it to effectively penetrate the skin to deep moisturize and deliver other active ingredients.  Jojoba shields much the same way that sebum does, creating a protective film over the skin.
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Kaolin The fine light-colored clay used in pottery to make porcelain.  It has an excellent absorbent, tightening and toning properties.
 
Kelp
(Macrocystis Pyriferae)		 A marine plant product recovered from the giant Pacific kelp, Macrocystis pyriferae.  It has a high mineral content, especially iodine, and is used as a skin soother.
 
Kukui See Oil
(Aleurites Moluccana)		 Native to Hawaii and used by early Hawaiians to shield skin, is high in linoleic acid to protect from roughness and dryness.  It has exceptional penetration properties, helping transport active ingredients into skin cells.  It also soothes and moisturizes skin without any greasy after feel.
 
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Lactic Acid An acid present in milk.  It is a syrupy liquid which readily absorbs moisture and is used to adjust the pH of formulations.
 
Laurenth-4 Polyethylene Glycol ether of Lauryl Alcohol; it is also an emulsifier.
 
Lavender
(Lavendulo Angustifolia)		 It stimulates cell growth and balances the complexion. It also has soothing, antiseptic, and refreshing properties.
 
Lecithin Extract A naturally occurring mixture of the diglycerides of stearic, palmitic and oleic acids, linked to the choline ester of phosphoric acid.  It is found in living plants and animals.  Used in conjunction with Plankton Extract for DNA repair.
 
Licorice It is a natural redding agent.
 
L-Tyrosine An amino acid that penetrates the epidermis to the basal layer where melanocytes are located producing an extra reserve of tyrosine in the skin, assisting or activating melanin synthesis.  Helps to prolong the effect of the tanning process.
 
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Macadamia Nut Oil (Macadamia Ternifolia) It is a carrier for active ingredients and a natural moisturizer with excellent penetrations properties.  It has been long been valued by Hawaiians for its ability to protect, soothe and condition the skin.  Macadamia nut oil is high in palmitoleic acid, which is an effective antioxidant and valuable fatty acid that is long in skin as we age.
 
Marigold The extract, derived from the plant's flowers, provides soothing effects and helps heal damaged or irritated tissues, reducing inflammations.
 
Marine Biocomplex SEE:  Dulse, Kelp, Bladderwrack, Chlorella, Spirulina
 
Melanin Pigment produced by melanocytes in various parts of the body, especially hair and skin.  Melanin consists of highly irregular polymers produced in granules which may be bound to protein.   Melanin is produced by the basal layer of the skin in response to ultraviolet radiation exposure.
 
Melanocyte A skin cell capable of producing melanin
 
Mica is a silicate mineral and is commonly used in combination with other silicate minerals as a colorant.
 
Micrococcus Lysate (Cellgard) Patented milk flora enzyme extract encapsulated in liposomes.  This enzyme recognizes sun damage in skin, triggering the skin's protective tanning response, which in turn stimulates the production of tanning melanin.  The rare DNA restorative enzymes prompts the skin's natural recovery system to help minimize the visible signs of past and future UV damage.  The enzyme recognizes UV damage to the DNA of cells, initiates the removal of that damage, and stops the gradual weakening of the genetic material that causes photo-aging-processes that result in younger looking skin.
 
Micrococcus Lysate (Ultrasomes) It is a unique patented milk flora enzyme extract encapsulated in liposomes.  This enzyme recognizes sun damage in skin, triggering the skin's protective tanning response, which in turn stimulates the production of tanning melanin.  At appropriate concentrations, ultrasomes also increase tanning after exposure, allowing greater tanning results with less exposure.  In addition, the rare DNA restorative enzyme in ultrasomes prompts the skin's natural recovery system to help minimize the visible signs of past and future UV damage.  The enzyme recognizes UV damage to the DNA of cells, initiates the removal of that damage, and stops the gradual weakening of the genetic material that causes photo-aging-processes that result in younger looking skin.
 
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Natural Derived from plant, animal, or mineral sources
 
Natural Plant
Chlorophyll		 The green pigment in plants.  It is used as a natural colorant and for its deodorizing and cleansing properties.
 
Nettles
(Urtica diocia)		 The dried plant, Urtica diocia.  It is a natural cleanser and tonic.
 
Nutrient A substance, such as vitamin or mineral, that provides elements for the ongoing function of the body's metabolic processes.
 
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Olive Oil
(Olea Europaea)		 Olive oil is obtained from the ripe fruit of Olea Europaea.  It is considered the standard for emollience in skin care.  Softens and smoothes the skin, leaving it supple.  It also locks in moisture in, preventing skin from dryness.  In addition, it targets epidermal keratinocytes and stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin, encouraging firmer skin.
 
Ordenone Used for tanning odor control.
 
Organic Any substance that is composed of plant or animal matter, and, therefore, containing carbon.  Even though all organic ingredients used in cosmetics can be traced to living origins, they cannot always be considered natural.  Many organic ingredients are produced through synthesis or chemical processing of natural parent substances, but no longer resemble the natural form of their parents.  Since most ingredients used to manufacture cosmetics are organic, cosmetic chemistry is a sub-category of organic chemistry.
 
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Panthenol
(Vitamin B Complex)		 Panthenol is Pro-Vitamin B5, which is part of the B-complex group.  Its is essential in the synthesis of lipids and proteins.  Panthenol is used as a deep-penetrating skin moisturizer.
 
PEG-150 Distearate Foam stabilizer, hair and skin conditioner.  
 
PEG-20 Stearate A water soluble emulsifier, for triglycerides, waxes, and mineral oils. It thickens and emulsifies crèmes, lotions and ointments.
 
PEG-7 Glyceryl
Cocoate		 It is an emollient.
 
pH Directly defined as the concentration of the hydrogen molecule, which determines the acid or alkaline level of a product.  The pH level of the skin determines, in part, the integrity of the acid mantle.  Soaps and harsh detergents alter the pH of skin.
 
Phenoxyethanol Common cosmetic preservative that is considered one of the less irritating ones to use in formulations. It does not release formaldehyde.
 
Plankton Extract Marine active obtained from specific a zooplankton called Artemina salina.
 
Polyacrylamide Used as a thickening agent and imparts a smooth feel to the product.
 
Polyquaternium-10 It is cellulose polymer and skin conditioning agent.
 
Polysorbate 20 A versatile oil-in-water emulsifier, very water-soluble.  It is excellent solubilizer for essential oils.  It is also a viscosity modifier in shampoos, liquid soaps and conditioners.
 
Polysorbate 80 A water-loving emulsifier used to solublize essential oils, fragrances, flavors, and natural oils in aqueous systems.  Serves as a co-emulsifier for oils and waxes.
 
Pomegranate Extract
 (Punica Granatum) 		Pomegranate is Latin for "fruit of many seeds." Since the pomegranate has numerous seeds and is red in color, it has been linked with fertility since ancient times.  The pomegranate fruit is packed with powerful polyphenols.  Pomegranate fruits deliver some of the most potent antioxidants available.
 
Potassium Sorbate It is a nontoxic preservative.
 
Primrose Oil A natural oil that hydrates and softens the skin.
 
Propylene Glycol It is an aliphatic alcohol that is used as a skin conditioning agent and humectant and is a solvent for preservatives (Parabens), essential oils, flavors, and fragrances.
Purified Water SEE  De-ionized Water
 
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Quanternium 15 It is a preservative active against a wide spectrum of microbial organisms.
 
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Red Clover It is a skin soothing ingredient.
 
Retinyl Palmitate
(Vitamin A)		 A potent antioxidant and very effective free-radical scavenger, is especially beneficial for dry or damaged skin.  Vitamin A helps prevent skin dryness and scaliness by hydrating and softening the skin, keeping it healthy, clear, and infection resistant.  Known as "the skin vitamin", it acts as a keratinization regulator, helping to improve the skin's texture, firmness, and smoothness.    It is used for anti-aging products due to is ability to stimulate new cell production, which is enhanced when combined with vitamin E.  When Vitamin A is incorporated into skin care products at adequate levels, it will increase cell proliferation in the epidermis, stimulate fibroblasts to produce elastin and collagen, and induce new blood vessels to grow, all of which result in healthier and younger looking skin.
 
Riboflavin
(Vitamin B2)		 More commonly known as Vitamin B2.  Can be used a colorant.  This co-enzyme in cell metabolism is vital in the building and maintenance of the mucosal and epithelial skin tissues.  It also plays a role in tissue respiration.
 
Rosemary
(Rosmarimus Officinalis)		 It has potent antioxidant and skin-conditioning properties.
 
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Salicylic Acid An aromatic acid that occurs naturally in wintergreen, sweet birch, and other plants.  It is an approved keratolytic because it softens skin and an approved antifungal because it kills fungus.
 
Sea Kelp SEE:  Kelp
 
Sea Salt Salts refined from sea water.  The preparation contains essential minerals and is used as a palliative.
 
Sesame Oil
(Sesamum Indicum)		 Derived from sesame seeds.  It is an easily absorbed and very effective moisturizer, yet it leaves no oily residue.  Sesame oil contains high levels of antioxidant vitamins A and E.
 
Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) It is a fat obtained from the fruit of the karite tree.  It is a skin-conditioning ingredient that is well-known for its skin-smoothing property.  It helps protect and restore skin, and is especially good for dry and sensitive skin types.
 
Shelf Life The length of time a product can be expected to remain fresh.
 
Skin Care Proper maintenance of the skin to keep it clean, moist, and attractive, using cleanser, toners, moisturizers, and treatments to control blemishes and postpone visible signs of aging.
 
Sodium Hyaluronate (Aquaxyl) Found in human cells, is a cellular renewal ingredient, as well as a healing and moisturizing agent.
 
Sodium Laureth Sulfate The sodium salt of Sulfated Ethoxylated Lauryl Alcohol.  A high foaming, viscous surfactant.  It is an excellent cleansing agent for shampoos and cleansers.
 
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate An excellent cleansing agent in bath and dentifrice products.
 
Sodium PCA A sodium salt of 2-Pyrrolidone-5-Carboxylic Acid, a natural moisturizing factor component.  A humectant and emollient.  Holds several times its weight in water.
 
Soluble Being able to dissolve into or as if into a fluid.
 
Soothing Having the effect of reducing the discomforts of irritated, blemished, or burning skin.
 
Sorbitol A sugar found in many berries.  It is a humectant that leaves a silky velvety feeling to skin.
 
SPF A numerical rating system devised by the FDA that indicates the degree of sun protection provided by a product. A higher SPF value indicates more sun protection from ultraviolet radiation.
 
Squalane
(plant derived)		 !00% natural and derived from Olives.  It gives great moisturizing and film-forming properties to skin.
 
St. John's Wort An ingredient used for it's antioxidant properties.
 
Steareth-20 A polyethylene glycol ether of stearyl alcohol.  It acts as an emulsifier which is stable both in highly alkaline and/or highly acidic formulas.
 
Stearic Acid It is derived from coconut and palm oils, is a an emollient and an emulsifier.
 
Sweet Almond Oil This ingredient is obtained from the ripe see kernel of Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis.  It is made by pressing the kernels from both the sweet and bitter almond trees.  It is an excellent skin softener.
 
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Tetrasodium EDTA Water softener.  A bonding agent that links with minerals to prevent them from causing microbial growth.
 
Titanium Dioxide It is an inorganic oxide occurring in nature, brilliant white in color with many times the covering power of Zinc Oxide.  Used as a colorant (opacifier) and absorbent.
 
Tocopherol SEE Vitamin E
 
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E) Commonly known as Vitamin E.  It is an antioxidant that helps lipid peroxidation in cells and tissues.  It helps neutralize free radicals to prevent and diminish fine lines and wrinkles while it also softens skin and moisturizes from within.  Some research shows that Vitamin E can help maintain the skin's connective tissue, helping it stay smooth and elastic.
 
Triethanolamine
(TEA)		 This ingredient is used as a pH balancer in cosmetic preparations in a variety of different products but can also be used as a fragrance ingredient.
 
Tyrosine Tyrosine is a naturally occurring amino acid.  It is essential for the production of the pigment melanin.  Various derivatives of-Tryosine are available.  SEE Acetyl Tyrosine & L-Tyrosine.
 
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Ultamarines Inorganic pigments (of various colors) permanently listed by the FDA for external use only, including around the eye area.
 
Ultraviolet The range of radiation wavelengths between x-rays and visible light.  Ultraviolet radiation is produced by the sun but only UVA and UVB reach the earth's surface because UVC is filtered out by ozone in the stratosphere.
 
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Viscosity The thickness or thinness of a product.  A high viscosity refers to a product that is very thick and many not flow well.
 
Vitamin A
(Retinyl Palmitate)		 A potent antioxidant and very effective free-radical scavenger, is especially beneficial for dry or damaged skin.  Vitamin A helps prevent skin dryness and scaliness by hydrating and softening the skin, keeping it healthy, clear, and infection resistant.  Known as "the skin vitamin", it acts as a keratinization regulator, helping to improve the skin's texture, firmness, and smoothness.    It is used for anti-aging products due to is ability to stimulate new cell production, which is enhanced when combined with vitamin E.  When Vitamin A is incorporated into skin care products at adequate levels, it will increase cell proliferation in the epidermis, stimulate fibroblasts to produce elastin and collagen, and induce new blood vessels to grow, all of which result in healthier and younger looking skin.
 
Vitamin B An antioxidant vitamin that helps neutralize free radicals.  A deep moisturizer that stimulates cellular regeneration, helps retard the aging process by promoting skin tissue repair.  These properties, as well as vitamin B's soothing and anti-inflammatory characteristics, make it vital ingredient in skin care products.
 
Vitamin B Complex (Panthenol) see Panthenol
 
Vitamin B2
(Riboflavin)		 Also known as Riboflavin. Can be used as a colorant.  This co-enzyme in cell metabolism is vital in the building and maintenance of the mucosal and epithelial skin tissues.  It also plays a role in tissue respiration.
 
Vitamin C
(Ascorbic Acid)		 An antioxidant vitamin that helps neutralize free radicals.  It has been clinically shown to reverse photo-aging (wrinkles and age spots) and boost the skin's collagen productions for smoothers and firmer skin.  In addition, Vitamin C inhibits UVA and UVB radiation-induced damage, also resulting in younger looking skin.
 
Vitamin E
(Tocopheryl Acetate)		 An antioxidant that helps lipid peroxidation in cells and tissues.  It helps neutralize free radicals to prevent and diminish fine lines and wrinkles while it also softens skin and moisturizes from within.  Some research shows that Vitamin E can help maintain the skin's connective tissue, helping it stay smooth and elastic.
 
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Walnut Shell Extract (Juglans Regia) Is a natural bronzing agent.
 
White Willow
(Salix Alba)		 It is found throughout North America.  The bark is a source of salicylic acid-like ingredients.  When added to cosmetic formulations, the extract can increase cell renewal and boost the antimicrobial capabilities of cosmetic formulations, creating a brighter-looking skin appearance.  It also improves skin health by helping to neutralize free radicals.
 
Witch Hazel
(Hamamelis Virginiana)		 A natural extract from the Hamamelis plant, fights free radicals.  It is non-drying, soothing and has astringent properties.
 
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Xanthan Gum Xanthan Gum is a natural wax.  It is a high molecular weight heteropolysaccharide gum produced by a pure-culture fermentation of a carbohydrate with Xanthomonas campestris.  It is highly effective moisturizer.
 
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Yarrow Extract An extract derived from a naturalized strong-scented European compostire herb, Achillea millefolium.  It is an astringent.
 
Yeast Extract Obtained from Yeast, this derivative is popular constituent of oily skin preparations.  It contains a mixture of amino acids, glycoproteins, vitamins, nucleoprotenins, and lipids.  It provides nourishment for skin metabolism.
 
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Zinc Oxide It is obtained from zinc ore, a commonly found mineral, and is relatively non-allergenic.  Used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin.  It provides an excellent barrier to the skin and other irritants.  It is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial.  When used in sunscreen preparations, it can contribute to and/or increase SPF.  It have UVA and UVB absorption characteristics.
 
Zince Sulfate Chemical compound resulting from the interaction of zinc with sulfuric acid.
 
 

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